John Anthony Barker

Ballymoloe trained chef, superstar and head chef at Good For The Soul Cafe in Ballincollig, Cork, Ireland talks about where his passion of food came from and the love you need to be a chef.

Food is an expression; a lifestyle choice ever before we step foot into a professional kitchen. For me, my love affair with food began as a quiet teenager in a family of wonderfully outspoken individuals as I asked myself what I could bring to the mayhem of this equation. The obvious answer, it seemed, was cake and suddenly things got personal.


All those years later, and things have changed little. A tough day can still be made better by a good bake; every family occasion is marked by a signature dessert, but what’s more is that each day has found me at the head of the Good For The Soul kitchen as my relationship with food goes from strength to strength.


The reason I touch back on the beginnings of one of the most important relationships in my life, is to then pave the way for a focus on the fragility and vulnerability which comes with such a connection. It is a brave move to subject something so important to the professional kitchen environment: an environment of intense pressure driven by the cruel mistress of time, under the watchful gaze of a temperamental audience. There must really be only one reason why we would do it, and it is true; we do it for the love.


However, love too is a double-edged sword, and in cooking with your heart, you put your head on the line. Despite being a part of a fast-paced team, the overriding narrative can often be your own thoughts. Such thoughts can manifest themselves in various forms along the spectrum, from the inner-saboteur to the well-satisfied ego. Orders flood in, plates go out and demands of tomorrow have already begun encroaching on your mind, and suddenly the lines between the head and the heart become blurred as the pressure grows and the pot boils.


A superior gives you feedback, a colleague does not share your vision, a customer takes to their online podium of power, blissfully unaware that for each blow they deliver, the ripple effect will throw another ten, leaving a chef accountable to their seniors, their peers and most directly to themselves.


There are so many external sources of impact on the mind of a chef that put our mental health in jeopardy. It is therefore our responsibility to be aware of such factors and to create that on/off switch between the personal and professional. Whilst easier said than done, what we can do for ourselves is simple: remind yourself regularly why you cook; what dish you first cooked which gave you the confidence to say ‘yes I can’ and stay present. Let not one flawed dish set a precedent for the following hundred, rather reaffirm why and prove yourself in the comeback, as you continue to strive for excellence.


The next step is to turn outwards, look at those around you. Those with whom you share a kitchen and a common goal are quite likely experiencing similar thoughts and have different levels of ability to deal with them also. Be a support and be supported. Signs of stress or anxiety can often be clear so be prompt in your action. You should know the mood and what your kitchen can be; like a well-rehearsed song, that you know instantly if somebody is out of tune.


I maintain that food should be accessible and not a well kept secret. We are all connected by our love of food, and so should share that freely: talk. Talk, don’t tell. Share with each other your knowledge about food, your experiences, ideas, inspirations and realign your personal mission statement before it gets so entangled in a stifled, emotion-driven silence.


Chefs have been tarred with the ‘tired and cranky’ brush for far too long. We are allowed to be vulnerable and to feel the highs and the lows in equal measure. With every failed soufflé, comes a memory; with every memory comes an experience and with every experience comes an opportunity to grow. Do not retreat from these moments; rather cherish them as soon-to-be highlights in your own memory bank of learning.


Finally, from a diners’ perspective also food evokes memory. As chefs we owe it to the legion of great chefs before us to facilitate the creation of more special memories through the dishes which we present. It is an honour to be entrusted with this task. However, as humans, we owe it to ourselves to take care of one another, to know when the relationship is fraught and in need of repair, and to ensure we are able for the role before we reach the point of burnout.


Cook with the head and with the heart, but above all, cook smart.

John Barker.

Where does Cooking In Mind start from?

Lets be honest about where the industry is now.

Read my bio and you’ll see what I want to achieve, see what we have to achieve.

I thought my first blog post should be simply looking at where we are now. A big part of the reason I want to write this is to see if my thoughts are the same in a years time.

I’ve very much only started the conversation.

Is working in a professional kitchen a mentally healthy thing to do?

The extreme is to simply say no. I have spoken to many a chef who has answered with that. I wouldn’t shoot them down but I definitely don’t think that it is always the case and it simply cant be like that. What if all chefs stop being chefs? Where will you take your mum out for mothers day? Where will you get a burger when you’re hungover and couldn’t possibly cook it for yourself?

Right now we are in a place where the food industry is growing, however the popularity of being a chef is going down.

The simple reason that being a chef is becoming less popular is down to the fact the jobs being asked for by employers are not very appealing. They are demanding a level of commitment not matched in other industries.

“Its always going to be long hours, anti-social hours, limited holiday opportunities, no breaks, low pay; that’s what being a chef is”

How long do we really think this will last? I hear it compared to being a nurse for example. Really? The commitment from a job that saves lives cannot be compared to a job that offers somebody a plate of food which lets be honest, you could make yourself. It should be compared to a builder, where breaks are enforced and where you would only work a weekend for double pay.

I love the industry is my truth. I have been addicted for a lot of years. But I know that the conditions have become too much for me. My mission is to get everyone talking about how we can make this better. It is not in any way to talk to chefs and tell them to run away and leave the industry. Being a chef is fulfilling and gives you everything you need from a job. However, it has to evolve so that the best chefs stay as chefs.

If we can do this, not only will the industry be a wonderful thing for its workers but on the other side…

The food coming out of professional kitchens will get better!

The food that comes out of kitchens where the chefs are in control and happy is so much better. Ive witnessed it. Its fairly obvious really isn’t it? We used to believe that if chefs were scared then they wouldn’t make mistakes and the food would be great, right?

Its not true! This myth needs to be busted. I make mistakes when I’m anxious and scared of the consequence of a mistake. If chefs feel empowered, safe and respected then they will always give 100% and their focus will be on great cooking rather than the fear of failure.

Pressure is great, fear is bad.

At the moment I don’t think most head chefs or managers would know how to put pressure on one of their chefs without that becoming fear. I feel a lot of chefs would say that they spent years being scared of making a mistake and would therefore think it is their right to pass this onto their team. I’m here to fight myth.

I am aware that I will come across some very motivated, focused chefs who will say to me that we need to ‘Man up’ or ‘Toughen up’ and if this is you then I’d like to talk to you about it. Are there elements of this can use to give focus? Should we replace it with a better rhetoric?

I am interested in how many chefs would recommend to their children that they should follow in their parents steps? Not many I would think.

Lets talk about it chef.